Navigation¶

• Main Page
  

• Automotive Index
  

• Motorcycle Index
  

• Random Page
• Create a new Page
• All Pages
• Categories
• Navigation Paths
• Recent Activity
  

• Administration
• File Management
  

• Create Account
  

• WikiAuto Forums
  

• WikiAuto Classifieds
  

Nissan Sentra 1991-1994 - CV Boot Replacement

Tools Needed¶

• Socket wrench
• 32 mm deep socket (It must be deep, the regular one will not fit)
• Half inch breaker bar with cheater bar, or an airgun
• 13/16' for lug nuts
• 17 mm socket and box wrench.
• Flathead screwdriver
• hammer
• Vice or something similar, with soft grips (a rag will work).
• C clip pliers (maybe)
• Pliers for cv boot metal bands.
• Torque wrench
  

Supplies Needed¶

• CV boot kit (Contains new boot, grease,metal bands for the boot)
• Lots of paper towels
• Latex gloves
  

Instructions¶

1. Jack up the front of the car, or the side you'll be working on. Use jackstands for safety. Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the 32 mm axle nut. It will be on there good. It's torqued down to 145-203 foot pounds of torque. An air gun is best, but if you don't have one, a breaker bar with a pipe on the end will work.
3. Remove the two 17 mm bolts on the torque member and move the caliper to the side. Do not hang it by the brake line, and don't disconnect it unless you want to bleed it. The torque member bolts are behind the rotor. Pull the rotor off and place it to the side. I don't think you have to remove the brakes, but its easy and gives you room to work.
4. Remove the two 17 mm bolts that attach the bottom of the strut to the knuckle. At this point, you want to be sure that the axles does not pull out of the tranny. I used a jackstand to support it.
5. With the hub free from the strut, you will be able to move it around, and be able to push the axle out of it. You may need a hammer. As always, when using the hammer, be careful not to damage anything. Again, be careful the axle doesn't pull out of the tranny.
6. Remove the metal bands holding the boot to the CV joint. There are two, one on the big end, one on the small. use a screw driver to put it under the end of the band, and hit it with a hammer. That should free it. Pull the boot back from the large end. If it makes it easier, you can go ahead and cut the boot off, or just leave it there. This part is where it really starts to get messy. There will be a lot of grease.
7. Now you need to remove the CV joint from the axle. Hit the large lip of the CV joint casing out towards the wheel, while being careful not to pull the axle from the tranny. Also, be careful not to damage the CV joint. With a few hits it will slide off. If you haven't already, remove the old cv boot. (Note: I'm not sure if the joint is supposed to come out without the removal of a c clip. There was no c clip on mine, so I didn't worry about it. No problems so far)
8. At this point, you can either put the new boot on, or disassemble the cv joint and clean it. Its up to you. If you don't want to disassemble it, skip these steps.
9. Put the joint in a vice using something to pad it and prevent damage. You need to remove the six ball bearings. Do this by hitting the cage (what the ball bearings are held in by) with a soft driver opposite the ball bearing you want to remove. I used the handle end of an old screwdriver for this. The ball will be high enough now to remove. You may need to gently pry it out. Remove all six one at a time.
10. After all six are removed, you can remove the inner race by rotating it and aligning it with the cage window that is slightly larger than the others. Then you can removed the cage by rotating it as well. Its hard to describe, but once you figure this out it will be easy. Clean all of the parts, and reinstall. Grease up the ball bearings liberally when you reinstall them.
    • Note: I had a lot of problems at this point. Everything didn't want to go back together smoothly. First, make sure you put the inner race in the same direction it came out. I had everything installed the way it was, and it was very hard to move when I got it back together. I thought maybe the bearings should have gone back in the same slot they came out of. Of course I didn't mark what came from where. Well, it eventually worked out. I just stuck a pipe in the cv joint and moved it around for about 20 seconds. I guess everything seated up right after that and it moved just fine after that.
11. Fill the CV joint with supplied grease. I used the majority of the grease doing that.
12. Slide the new cv boot onto the axle. Slide or hammer the cv joint onto the axle. Make sure it doesn't go to far in or it wont be able to move. If you have c clips, make sure they get installed. Squirt the rest of the supplied grease into the cv boot.
13. Slide the boot onto the joint, and install the metal bands on each end. Use the special pliers to crimp them on tight. Note: My cv boot came with the wrong medal band. It's size was a 92 instead of a 98. Check this before you start working.
14. Reinstall everything now. Reconnect the bottom of the strut to the knuckle, put your brakes back on, and put the axle nut on. Torque it to 145-203 foot pounds.